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Solar Cockroach Virbobot
I came up with this very simple Cockroach Virbobot. It only costs about $2.50 and 20 minutes of time to make. Super cute and super simple.
What you need.
Soldering Iron + solder
Hot glue gun
(A helping hand is nice as well)
Wire cutters or strong scissors
1.5V solar panel ($1)
Small DC Vibrating Motor (AKA Pager motor) ($1)
Two paper clips
Scrap wire (I used the ends from a couple of resistors i had cut down. They can be anything.)
Super Cute Option: Googley eyes
I bought a pack of 10 solar panels off ebay for $10. Great for a lot of projects.
I bought my motors from the online store Electric Goldmine for $1.10 each. I like the ones they have because they trigger at only 0.5V, whereas most trigger at around 1.5V. The lower trigger voltage you can get the better because it means that your roach will work under less sunlight. If you do buy from them be SURE to get the motors with the blue casing, not the silver. Silver ones suck for a variety of reasons.
Soldering Iron + solder
Hot glue gun
(A helping hand is nice as well)
Wire cutters or strong scissors
1.5V solar panel ($1)
Small DC Vibrating Motor (AKA Pager motor) ($1)
Two paper clips
Scrap wire (I used the ends from a couple of resistors i had cut down. They can be anything.)
Super Cute Option: Googley eyes
I bought a pack of 10 solar panels off ebay for $10. Great for a lot of projects.
I bought my motors from the online store Electric Goldmine for $1.10 each. I like the ones they have because they trigger at only 0.5V, whereas most trigger at around 1.5V. The lower trigger voltage you can get the better because it means that your roach will work under less sunlight. If you do buy from them be SURE to get the motors with the blue casing, not the silver. Silver ones suck for a variety of reasons.
Put the motor in one clip of the Helping Hand and a wire in the other. Solder on.
Do the same to the other side.
You want the wires point out.
BE CAREFUL! You don't want to use too much solder, nor do you want to put your soldering iron on the tab for too long. Too much heat and you'll melt the motor.
(Another reason I love the motors from Electric Goldmine is that they have very big solder tabs that are easy to solder. You want the ones with the blue casing, the pure silver casing ones melt with the slightest touch.)
Do the same to the other side.
You want the wires point out.
BE CAREFUL! You don't want to use too much solder, nor do you want to put your soldering iron on the tab for too long. Too much heat and you'll melt the motor.
(Another reason I love the motors from Electric Goldmine is that they have very big solder tabs that are easy to solder. You want the ones with the blue casing, the pure silver casing ones melt with the slightest touch.)
Now align the two wires to the two solder points of the solar panel.
Positive and negative don't matter in this case.
I like having my motor be hanging in the middle. You can have it any which way you like.
Simple, no?
No, you don't need anything else.
No, you don't need a diode.
No, you shouldn't try fitting a capacitor in there. (I tried, it's not worth it.)
Positive and negative don't matter in this case.
I like having my motor be hanging in the middle. You can have it any which way you like.
Simple, no?
No, you don't need anything else.
No, you don't need a diode.
No, you shouldn't try fitting a capacitor in there. (I tried, it's not worth it.)
Straighten out your two paper clips. I usually only use about 2/3rds of a small paperclip. It all depends on how long of legs you want.
Then bend them in half. We're making nice little Vs here people.
Using the Helping Hand and Hot Glue Gun, glue the legs on.
Again, the position of the legs all depends on you and how you want the roach to stand. I like my roaches short and slightly angled forward. This way I can point him at the sun for max power.
(As someone was so kind to point out, don't let the paperclips tough the wires the run to the motor, otherwise you'll get a short. If you're worried, just throw some hot glue between the legs and the motor wires.)
Then bend them in half. We're making nice little Vs here people.
Using the Helping Hand and Hot Glue Gun, glue the legs on.
Again, the position of the legs all depends on you and how you want the roach to stand. I like my roaches short and slightly angled forward. This way I can point him at the sun for max power.
(As someone was so kind to point out, don't let the paperclips tough the wires the run to the motor, otherwise you'll get a short. If you're worried, just throw some hot glue between the legs and the motor wires.)
Your'e now done.
To make your roach extra cute I usually add on some little antennas via a single strip of thin wire.
You can also go full crazy and add googley eyes to make him extra personable.
To make your roach extra cute I usually add on some little antennas via a single strip of thin wire.
You can also go full crazy and add googley eyes to make him extra personable.
DIY Lego USB
You Need:
-Thumb Drive
-Lego bricks
-Super glue
-Razor blade
-Dremel
First, take apart your thumb drive by cutting it open with the razor, then take the drive part out (without breaking it), and size it up to a Lego brick to determine what size you'll need. Then, head to your work place for the rest.
Now get out your dremel or drill and drill out all the insides of your Lego brick, leaving only a "trough" which your drive will go.
After your Legos insides are out you're going to sand it down to the size of two flat Legos, so stack two flat Legos on top of each other and trace a line onto the brick where your gonna shave off, look at the pictures for more help. I used a dremel to sand the brick down, on my first one a used a file but that took almost an hour. Amost Done!
My drive didnt fit in the Lego brick so I had to widen the sides, so I took a drill to the sides and made it a little wider (You are most likely going to have to do this). Then, cut out a slot for the drives metal thingy.
To finish your drive, take a flat brick and shave off all but two of the dots (this makes it so the bottom will fit into the other brick better) so your drive will fit, then simply glue the bottom piece onto the hollowed out shave down brick and your Done!
Solar 7-up: Solar phone charger in a bottle
Message in a bottle. Genie in a bottle. Ship in a bottle.
Solar phone charger in a bottle.
The time has come. Drink a peppy beverage of your choice, or drown your sorrows by draining a bottle of Johnnie -- do whatever it takes to get an empty bottle. And then follow these easy steps to transform it into a solar phone charger.
Time to complete: an hour
A wee bit of soldering required
Difficulty level: Pretty easy, but broken glass is likely
Number of band-aids required: 1-2
Solar phone charger in a bottle.
The time has come. Drink a peppy beverage of your choice, or drown your sorrows by draining a bottle of Johnnie -- do whatever it takes to get an empty bottle. And then follow these easy steps to transform it into a solar phone charger.
Time to complete: an hour
A wee bit of soldering required
Difficulty level: Pretty easy, but broken glass is likely
Number of band-aids required: 1-2
++ An old bottle.
++ Either a hand of steel for popping the bottom out of the bottle, or a glass cutting wheel.
++ A playing card.
++ Copper tape (single-sided adhesive): This is easy to find at most hardware or electronics shops.
++ 11 solettes: these are small pieces of monocrystalline or polycrystalline PV silicon that are typically hidden under an epoxy blob in off-the-shelf panels. You need the raw stuff for this instructable. Available a few places on eBay or via our Kickstarter page here: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/alex9000/the-solar-pocket-factory-an-invention-adventure
++ High temperature superglue aka cyano: the thin stuff, like crazy glue. The gels don't work well. The off-the-shelf super glues will work, but for a more reliable panel you will need high temperature cyano, since most basic cyanos breakdown at 80 degrees C (which is a bit on the threshold of what your panel could experience in a bottle sitting on your porch). I used Aron Alpha 401XZ, which gets to 120C.
++ Soldering iron and solder for just a couple joints.
++ JST connector with a couple free leads.
++ USB cable, plug to receptacle.
++ Lithium battery; I used a 2000mAh LiPo.
++ A lithium charge chip or board. There are several of these on the market, and they are also available in the phone charging kit on the Solar Pocket Kickstarter page mentioned above. I use the Seeed Studio LiPo Rider Pro for this charging bottle.
++ You don't need to encapsulate your panel for this project, since the panel will be protected more or less in a bottle. Although you will get corrosion over time at the solder joints, it will operate for quite a while without any encapsulant as long as your bottle doesn't get filled with water. However, you can encapsulate with 5-minute epoxy, but note that epoxy is only good for 2 years in the sun. Better encapsulants are PU designed for doming and high-end solar applications (like solar cars); and another great method is EVA laminate with glass. More on this method on a separate instructable shortly.
++ Either a hand of steel for popping the bottom out of the bottle, or a glass cutting wheel.
++ A playing card.
++ Copper tape (single-sided adhesive): This is easy to find at most hardware or electronics shops.
++ 11 solettes: these are small pieces of monocrystalline or polycrystalline PV silicon that are typically hidden under an epoxy blob in off-the-shelf panels. You need the raw stuff for this instructable. Available a few places on eBay or via our Kickstarter page here: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/alex9000/the-solar-pocket-factory-an-invention-adventure
++ High temperature superglue aka cyano: the thin stuff, like crazy glue. The gels don't work well. The off-the-shelf super glues will work, but for a more reliable panel you will need high temperature cyano, since most basic cyanos breakdown at 80 degrees C (which is a bit on the threshold of what your panel could experience in a bottle sitting on your porch). I used Aron Alpha 401XZ, which gets to 120C.
++ Soldering iron and solder for just a couple joints.
++ JST connector with a couple free leads.
++ USB cable, plug to receptacle.
++ Lithium battery; I used a 2000mAh LiPo.
++ A lithium charge chip or board. There are several of these on the market, and they are also available in the phone charging kit on the Solar Pocket Kickstarter page mentioned above. I use the Seeed Studio LiPo Rider Pro for this charging bottle.
++ You don't need to encapsulate your panel for this project, since the panel will be protected more or less in a bottle. Although you will get corrosion over time at the solder joints, it will operate for quite a while without any encapsulant as long as your bottle doesn't get filled with water. However, you can encapsulate with 5-minute epoxy, but note that epoxy is only good for 2 years in the sun. Better encapsulants are PU designed for doming and high-end solar applications (like solar cars); and another great method is EVA laminate with glass. More on this method on a separate instructable shortly.
You'll need two pieces of copper tape, to pickup the two poles of the solar panel you are assembling. Cut, peel, and stick. Rub it down with the back of your fingernail for that retro gloss finish..
>>Note that the copper tape conducts best along the surface without the adhesive. It doesn't conduct reliably through the tape thickness.
>>Note that the copper tape conducts best along the surface without the adhesive. It doesn't conduct reliably through the tape thickness.
Now, as with all of the Solar Pocket Instructables, this is the tricky part:
Theory:
This step is the key -- combine solettes in series with a superglued shingling technique. Each solette, or any chunk of mono or polycrystalline PV silicon for that matter, outputs around 0.5 - 0.6VDC, which is not enough voltage to do very many useful things. So, we need to combine enough of these solettes together in series so that their voltage outputs add up.
In order to power the LiPo charge circuit, which then pumps current into the LiPo battery, which then charges your smartphone, we need to produce 4.8V - 6VDC from our homemade solar panel. This means we will need a minimum of 10 solettes in series (or, 5.0Vopen). The solettes we are using will output Im (or, the max current at the maximum power point of the cells - about max power point here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maximum_power_point_tracking) of around 130-150 mA per solette. So, since we are combining the solettes in series, the voltages add up, but the current does not. Or, to put it another way, 10 of our solettes in series will output 5.0VDC and 130mA on a nice day in Osaka.
Back to the solettes: The (+) output is the grey underbelly of the first solette in your shingled stack. The (-) output of the series connected shingled lineup can be accessed either at the bus bar or white silver ink runners on the blue top surface of the final solette in your stack, or by using a "false" solette that doesn't produce electricity but just serves to bring do the top surface connections to a solette underbelly. This is the easiest and cleanest approach, and is worth the sacrificial solette. So, ignore what I wrote in the paragraph above -- you need 11 solettes if you are using one as a basic conductor.
What to do:
A few dabs of superglue (again, regular Crazyglue will worl, but breaks down at temperatures of 80C, so I recommend you use high temp cyanoacrylate available in the Solar Pocket Kits or online a number of places, including here), a few seconds of pressure, and you've got yourself a solar series connection! Repeat 11 times.
Theory:
This step is the key -- combine solettes in series with a superglued shingling technique. Each solette, or any chunk of mono or polycrystalline PV silicon for that matter, outputs around 0.5 - 0.6VDC, which is not enough voltage to do very many useful things. So, we need to combine enough of these solettes together in series so that their voltage outputs add up.
In order to power the LiPo charge circuit, which then pumps current into the LiPo battery, which then charges your smartphone, we need to produce 4.8V - 6VDC from our homemade solar panel. This means we will need a minimum of 10 solettes in series (or, 5.0Vopen). The solettes we are using will output Im (or, the max current at the maximum power point of the cells - about max power point here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maximum_power_point_tracking) of around 130-150 mA per solette. So, since we are combining the solettes in series, the voltages add up, but the current does not. Or, to put it another way, 10 of our solettes in series will output 5.0VDC and 130mA on a nice day in Osaka.
Back to the solettes: The (+) output is the grey underbelly of the first solette in your shingled stack. The (-) output of the series connected shingled lineup can be accessed either at the bus bar or white silver ink runners on the blue top surface of the final solette in your stack, or by using a "false" solette that doesn't produce electricity but just serves to bring do the top surface connections to a solette underbelly. This is the easiest and cleanest approach, and is worth the sacrificial solette. So, ignore what I wrote in the paragraph above -- you need 11 solettes if you are using one as a basic conductor.
What to do:
A few dabs of superglue (again, regular Crazyglue will worl, but breaks down at temperatures of 80C, so I recommend you use high temp cyanoacrylate available in the Solar Pocket Kits or online a number of places, including here), a few seconds of pressure, and you've got yourself a solar series connection! Repeat 11 times.
Check the output of your freshly minted panel at your two copper tape outputs -- in noonday sun you should read an open voltage of around 5.0 - 5.4VDC and a closed current of, well, whatever the closed current of a single solette is. For solettes of the area I am using in this project (13mm x 52mm), the closed current is around 130mA - 150mA. But I cover up around 20-25% of the solettes when I shingle them, so expect an output of around 100mA closed current.
You can make your panel very pretty and waterproof with a few techniques. This is not necessary for this particular project, because you will be placing the panel in a bottle, which will (mostly) protect it for some time before corrosion sets in.
That said, If you want to encapsulate anyhow, you can use an off-the-shelf 2-part 5-minute epoxy -- just pour it on with your panel suspended on a couple pencils to allow drip-off, and let it set. This will be pretty for perhaps two years before it yellows and turns to poo, although keeping the panel in the bottle will again help. You can also use bartop, EVA + glass lamination, and sophisticated doming polyurethanes. More on these options in a follow-on instructable.
That said, If you want to encapsulate anyhow, you can use an off-the-shelf 2-part 5-minute epoxy -- just pour it on with your panel suspended on a couple pencils to allow drip-off, and let it set. This will be pretty for perhaps two years before it yellows and turns to poo, although keeping the panel in the bottle will again help. You can also use bartop, EVA + glass lamination, and sophisticated doming polyurethanes. More on these options in a follow-on instructable.
The lithium charge chip I am using comes on a board called a LiPo Rider Pro. It has a JST connector input for the solar panel, so I needed to solder on a JST connector to my panel. (these come with all Solar Pocket Phone kits, incidentally)
Soldering onto the copper tape is a joy, even for people who have never soldered. It is actually fun to solder onto this stuff.
Make sure to get the polarity right of your connector! The bottom of the first solette you placed is your (+) connector, and the other copper connection is your (-) terminal.
Soldering onto the copper tape is a joy, even for people who have never soldered. It is actually fun to solder onto this stuff.
Make sure to get the polarity right of your connector! The bottom of the first solette you placed is your (+) connector, and the other copper connection is your (-) terminal.
Now that the solar panel is made, the rest is about the bottling of your energy collector.
There are various ways to get the bottom out of a glass bottle. I tried this method:
There are various ways to get the bottom out of a glass bottle. I tried this method:
Put all of the contents in the bottle, and epoxy the bottom back onto the bottle
You've done it!!
Now place your bottle in a window that gets good light, or hang it outside on a tree.
Well done solar hero!!
You can make this with parts you can find online and at some of the links I mentioned. And you can also make it with the kits on the Solar Pocket Factory Kickstarter page.
Well done solar hero!!
You can make this with parts you can find online and at some of the links I mentioned. And you can also make it with the kits on the Solar Pocket Factory Kickstarter page.
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